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和帕梅拉·尚蒂·派克一起走進攀巖世界

wjrxm 于2020-01-02發布 l 已有人瀏覽
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帕梅拉·珊蒂·派克是名職業攀巖者,也是第一個致力于寬裂縫攀巖的女性。
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Off-width Rock Climbing with Pamela Shanti Pack

和帕梅拉·尚蒂·派克一起走進攀巖世界

Really I think I was born to be an off-width climber.

真的,我想我天生就是寬裂縫攀巖者。

That was what my body was designed for. And clearly it was what my personality was designed for,

我的身體和性格與攀巖完美契合

because it requires an ability to believe in yourself, beyond your physical capacity.

因為攀巖需要你相信自己可以超越身體的極限。

My name is Pamela Shanti Peck, and I'm a professional rock climber.

我叫帕梅拉·珊蒂·派克,我是名職業攀巖者。

Utah is my favorite place to climb because we have these massive sandstone cliffs,

我最喜歡在猶他州攀巖,因為那里有這樣巨大的砂巖懸崖,

and often I'm the very first person to climb those particular cracks, so it's like being some sort of an explorer.

我經常是第一個爬上這些裂縫的人,所以我就像一名探險家一樣。

I climb in a traditional-style,which means that I have specific gear that's designed for placing in a crack,

我喜歡用傳統方式攀巖,這意味著我有專門的裝備,用來卡在裂縫里,

and as I climb, that gear catches me if I fall.

當我攀爬的時候,如果我掉下去,那套裝備就可以勾住我。

Choosing when to place the gear, whether you're going to place the gear, what are the chances you're going to fall,

我要選擇在哪里卡住裝備,是否要放置裝備以及我可能在哪里掉下去,

it just adds the component of reading the space as I climb and that makes it a little more exciting for me.

這些都讓我們在攀巖時去分析周圍的環境,讓整個過程更刺激。

Being a professional rock climber as a woman is relatively new.

女性的職業攀巖者現在還比較少見。

When I started in this particular style, it was a 2010.I was the first woman to devote myself to off width-climbing,

我是在2010年開始這項特殊的運動的。我是第一個致力于寬裂縫攀巖的女性。

and there was a lot of resistance to that and I was criticized for everything, it didn't matter what.

人們對此有很大的抵觸,我無論做什么都會受到批評。

I was criticized for wearing my hair down. I was criticized for what I wore when I climbed.

我因把頭發留長會被批評,攀巖石穿的衣服也會被批評。

Ultimately, all that criticism really inspired me to continue climbing.

最終,所有這些批評都激勵了我繼續攀登。

All right, good to go.

好了,出發吧。

It is a dangerous sport, so there's a lot that goes into it.I've climbed despite having broken ribs and various other injuries. In a way, maybe that's a form of meditation.

這是一項危險的運動,里面有很多學問。不管是肋骨骨者還是其他受傷都無法阻止我攀巖。在某種程度上,這也可以算是一種冥想。

I'm able to put the pain in the background, and I will make myself climb and allow myself to feel that pain after I finished the climb.

我可以把痛苦拋在腦后,我會盡全力爬上去,然后享受爬完后的“痛楚”。

And then this is an unpleasant moment where I am getting some blood work done after falling

這是一次不太好的經歷,照片里是從山上摔下來做完血檢后的我,

and needing to have surgery on my kidney.I've had two really bad injuries.The one was a fall where I had kidney surgery,and then the other was that one where I had the back injury.

那時我還要做一個腎部手術。我受了兩次很嚴重的傷。一次是摔傷后要做腎臟手術,另一次是我背部受傷。

It's always historically been, maybe, the least popular style of climbing there's ever been,

也許這是史上最不受歡迎的攀巖方式,

because of the physical brutality of this style.

因為這種方式對于身體來說很殘忍。

But I very quickly realized that it was a technically brilliant style and an artful style,

但我很快意識到這是一種技術精湛而巧妙的攀巖方式,

and that I could change it, that I could find new routes, and that I could establish new techniques,

我可以改變這種方式,找到新的攀巖線路,開發新的技術,

and my focus, as I said many times, is to bring grace to the grovel.

而正如我提到的,我的重心就是讓這個殘忍的運動變得更加合理。

I think my greatest passion or obsession as a climber aside from just you know climbing off-width, is looking for routes that are improbable.

覺得作為一名攀巖者,我最大的樂趣與激情就是尋找新的、不可能的路線。

I'll drive down these canyons and I'll look for routes that no one else has seen before,

我會驅車沿著這些峽谷,尋找其他人從未見過的路線,

and it takes a certain eye, a lot of imagination, a lot of creativity.It's like being an artist, having the idea of a book, the idea for a painting,

需要一定的眼光、想象力和創造力就像一個藝術家,會有寫一本書的靈感或者畫一幅畫的靈感,

and I'm just seeking out those ideas and then I'll create them.

我只是在尋找這些靈感然后創造它們。

My emphasis is on finding lines that tell a really good story.

我想讓這些路線講述動人的故事。

One of the joys of establishing a route is then you get to name the route.One of them is named the Kill Artist,

開發新的路線樂趣之一就是你可以給這些路線取名字。其中一座山叫殺人藝術家,

so that probably gives you a little bit of an idea of what that experience is like.

所以,這可能會讓你對這種經歷有一點了解。

I think as far as first ascents now,I've lost track but oh well over a 100 at this point.

從第一次開始算,我也已經數不清攀登過多少次了,但肯定超過100次了。

My father, Robert Pack, is a poet and he wrote this poem for me to express his apprehensions about my climbing

我父親羅伯特·帕克,他為我寫了這首詩,表達了他對我攀登的憂慮。

but also to express his understanding for what I do.

也是為了表達他對我所做的事的理解。

Down on firm planet earth,my wife and I share apprehensions,

在堅固的巖石下,我和我妻子深感擔憂,

that are easy to explain, as dread of helplessness,

這很好理解,就是對無助的恐懼,

and yet without the ecstasies in disciplined suspension of her breath,are almost weightless floating there,

然而,如果沒有她那屏住呼吸、訓練有素的狂喜她就會像羽毛一樣,找不到方向

perhaps the vast, unfathomable, uncertainty of parenthood possesses in its dark dismal depths of mad exhilaration of its own.

也許父母無盡的擔憂與不確定性也蘊含在她黑暗、陰暗、令人興奮的內心深處,她有著它自己的狂喜。

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